Jimmy Chew adding some feathered flair to his office chair

Jimmy’s a year-old Siamese-Calico mix we adopted from the Peninsula Humane Society down in Burlingame. He’s totally chill except for what we call his crazy kitty hours from 7-8 AM and 6-7 PM when he’s a total wild man. He arrived with the name Tom (I know, I know) and that just wasn’t working for me. The idea for his new handle came when we discovered he likes sleeping in my wife’s shoe closet.

Jimmy going all catty-wampus on his favorite felt wand toy

I’ve been wanting a cat in the family for a while but wanted to wait until Biz was a bit older and more mellow before having a kitty and a terrier tearing around the house. It’s been about a month and so far, so good with no major altercations. The boys are respectful of each other but it’s pretty obvious that Jimmy will be the king of the castle — Biz tends to defer to him.

Jimmy is proving to be an excellent help in the studio. He’s already figured out how to type but I need to get him a keyboard of his own so we don’t keep using it at the same time.

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Bebop is fairly well connected (his dad is with KFOG 104.5 FM) and had his people bring along a prop — the station truck. Genius that I am I thought it would be nice to have Bebop seated in the truck with the bridge behind it. I figured it would help keep him still and make it easier to get things lined up. Well, it turns out Bebop gets kind of excited (and vocal) when he’s in a vehicle so this shoot definitely go as planned. Check it out, including the final shot that made it all worthwhile.

First shot: Bebop decides to start singing

Shot #5: We're into full-on aria now. Does KFOG even play any opera?

Shots: 15-17: Bebop's mom steps in to end choir practice. Bebop listens intently and...checks to make sure the coast is clear

Shot 20: Singing leads to springing (Shots 21-99 are very similar)

Shot 100: What a calm, happy dog. So easy to work with, too!

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Let me introduce my primary go-to camera, the Canon 5D Mark II which I’ve been using for the last 3 years. This guy has really been through the wars with me  and has been a faithful friend.  I use its predecessor–the plain ole 5D–as a second camera and am anxiously waiting for the just-released new model — the 5D Mark III– to arrive. (its hard to come by right now).

This happened during a close up with a beagle when I was holding treat over the camera.

Why do I like it?

The dog ran into me while chasing a ball. Camera strap wasn't secure and the camera hit the pavement. Ouch! Now I use straps that connect to the tripod mount.

1) It has a full-frame sensor which–without getting hugely geeky and technical–means I can take full advantage of my wide angle lenses. Most DSLRs have smaller sensors that essentially reduce the effective “wide angleness” of lenses by 50 or 60%. For close-up work with dogs and cats, having that full focal range is really critical for me.

2) It shoots huge files so I can crop in way close in and still not lose a lot of detail and resolution

3) It’s really sturdy and takes a beating. Seriously. Mine’s been knocked out of my hands, nosed 0ff my tailgate, rained on, drooled on, dropped in the mud, kicked with sand, smeared with chicken, the list goes on.

4) It’s lighter than the really high-end 1D models so I can still hold it with one hand — uber important if you’re holding a treat or a ball in the other to get your subject’s attention.

Admittedly, these guys don’t come cheap so, if you’re just getting started there’s no reason to take out a second mortgage (not that any of us can any more) on the higher-end models.

The entry-level DSLRs for both Canon (the Rebel) and Nikon (the d3100) are both excellent and many of us pros began with those or their earlier versions.

Like me, if you end up deciding to make this more than a hobby or find yourself out shooting a lot and in tougher environments it may be worth looking at  the next level up where the camera bodies have a bit more metal in them.

If anyone has any real specific questions about DSLRs in general or the 5D specifically, please comment below. I’m happy to continue the discussion.

Another piece of must-have equipment if you photograph pets: lens wipes

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A Lad and His Lapin

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You can get direct eye contact like this by using toys, treats and/or helpers the right way

Read this First!

First and foremost, for this particular post I’m going to assume the dog or cat we’re dealing with doesn’t have any major fear or behavioral issues – just short attention spans or an aversion to looking straight at the camera. You definitely don’t want to be doing some of these things with a really nervous or fearful animal–for their sake and yours.

Your Ammo: Treats and Toys

Always have some really special, yummy treats handy–something your pet doesn’t get often but goes bonkers for when they do. I use unseasoned, cooked chicken a lot as well as string cheese but it’s really up to you. Toys are also a good idea. Every animal has their favorite but, as a rule, for dogs ones with squeakers work quite well. For cats, wand lures are great and so are laser pointers.

Keep your toy or treat at camera level and hold your camera with one hand if you can

Your Game Plan

Whether you’re flying solo or have someone willing to help, you’re going to want to show your pet the treat or toy to get their attention so they know you have it. Maybe even give them a little taste first. You can then lure them into position with another treat or by moving the toy where you want them. If you’re fairly coordinated you’re going to want to try to keep showing them the treat/toy while your getting your camera in position — this often means holding it with one hand and the treat in the other.

Sort of looks like the dog is running the show, right? If you have someone holding a toy for you make sure they keep it at lens level

When you’re ready, the most important thing to remember is to keep whatever you’re using at camera level — I usually hold it directly over the lens but will move it slightly left, right, up or down to refine the direction pet’s looking. If you have someone else to hold the treat or toy make sure they’re directly behind you and at your level and holding the treat level with the camera. You don’t want them standing and holding the treat up above them if you’re  lying on the ground or the pet’s going to be looking up and away from the camera.

Make a Little Noise

Sound effects can be pretty critical to the mix. Sometimes, the squeaker toy is enough but for others you may need to step outside your comfort zone and do your best dog or cat impression. I’ve been known to throw in a moo, bleat or oink from time to time to mix things up.

This is definitely not the right place for an assistant to hold the treat

Other times, shaking a set of car keys or even taking advantage of different ring-tones on a smart phone can get the attention you need. Again, you may also rely on your accomplices for this and get them to make the noise for you or with you. It can make for quite the scene out in public but over the years I’ve lost any sense of embarrassment or shame. Oh, and hopping up and down or waving your arms can sometimes help, too.

Mixing it Up

You have to be prepared to combine all of these things and try them in different ways. Pets get bored very fast and you may have only a few tries with each technique before they become ineffective. Be really positive and praise them when they do respond and don’t be afraid to try something new. Most importantly, try not to get frustrated if you can’t get it to work the first few times or they don’t respond. They’ll pick up on your stress and shut down altogether.

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When you’re photographing pets — especially young fast ones — sometimes it’s hard to focus on anything except getting a bead on them before they move again. The problem is there’s a lot more to a photo than just the subject. For instance what’s directly behind them: the background.

Using a backround that contrasts with a dog's coloring makes photos pop

For starters you generally want to go with a backdrop that contrasts with the color of the pet you’re working with so they pop against it. Green tends to work pretty well for a lot of different coat colors — especially black and white ones–so grassy yards and rows of bushes lend themselves nicely. You definitely want to avoid shooting against a background that’s similar in color to your pet — otherwise they tend to blend into each other.

Make sure background objects aren't centered directly behind your pet. (click to see large)

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Me and a client getting acquainted

This pet photography tip — one of my favorites — seemed really appropriate for Valentine’s Day. It doesn’t actually entail taking a picture but it’s one of the most important things you can do to get the best possible photographs of any pet you photograph — even your own. It’s really simple. Ready?

Spend time getting to know your subject before you shoot.

You know how much you hate it when you’re at a party and somebody  just pops a camera in your face and just starts taking pictures?  Imagine being a dog or cat, not even knowing what a camera is and having someone 10 times your size walk up, point one at your snout and begin snapping away. There’s no trust there and what you generally get–besides an upset subject–is unflattering pictures.

Equipment scented with treats and smelly things doesn't hurt

Before you even pick up the camera spend a little time hanging out getting comfortable with each other — even if it’s your own dog or cat. Let them sniff the camera. Heck, let them lick the lens — you can wipe it off. My camera and gear bag smell like a treat smorgasbord because my hands tend to get smeared with kibble, cheese and/or chicken during shoots and I totally use this to my advantage to help break the ice. It’s just like going on a date.

Building this kind of rapport is really critical. It relaxes everyone, gets you  happier subjects with better expressions and often allows you to get in closer than you would have otherwise.

I don’t have the lock on the best approach here by any means and if anyone else has any other tips on building rapport I’d love to hear them.

Or, if  you have other topics you’d like to see covered here please post below with your questions and suggestions.

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My choice for this first outtake post was easy  and I realized it would be about 5 minutes into the shoot.

The subjects: a pair of Pomeranians named Oscar and Frasier being photographed in Pleasanton in front of the new Firehouse Art Center.

The goal: get Oscar and Frasier to sit still long enough to grab a shot of them looking at the camera with the theatre behind them .

Problem #1: Oscar had to be on leash and barks constantly when excited

Problem #2: Being photographed means being excited

Problem #3: Did I mention problems #1 and #2?

I’ve posted a series misses followed by the one shot I got from the sequence that passes muster. In reality, there were quite a few more outtakes and really only one or two others of the two dogs together that ended up working well as a printable option. You’ll need click on the image to see the individual shots.

Outtakes

Two Black Pomeranians at Pleasanton Theatre (click to see large)

Final Shot

Black Pomeranians at Pleasanton Firehouse

What you can’t see  is one of the two pet parents lying on his back behind and below the two dogs holding on to Oscar’s leash as his wife is directly behind me jumping up and down shaking a treat bag. At the same time,  I’m  taking as many shots as I can and trying to keep these two whirling dervishes in focus while they spin around and hop over each other. Oh, and did I mention this is a public space so there were people riding by on bikes and stopping to watch while we did this. Whew, I’m exhausted again just thinking about it.

I also have to give kudos and many heartfelt backslaps to Oscar and Frasier’s mom and dad who sacrificed good posture and self respect to make this all possible. You guys were awesome!

Cast your vote! I’m nominated for Top SF Pet Photographer
on Bay Woof’s Beast of the Bay

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Claire Bear in her new home

Last month I photographed a 7 1/2 year old Basset Hound named Claire Bear for a My Mutt poster supporting Golden Gate Basset Rescue — the group that pulled her and 6o other Bassets from squalid conditions at a commercial breeding facility north of Sacramento. Fortunately for Claire Bear and a good number of the other Bassets freed that day this story has had a relatively happy outcome.

But it does serve as an object lesson in the problems and heartbreak puppy mills like this one can cause and why it’s so important that the public and all aspiring pet guardians know about them and avoid them.

Bassets in a filthy run on their rescue day. Photo courtesy of Golden Gate Basset Rescue

Claire Bear spent 6 years there and for most of them she was force bred — having as many as 8 litters.
She and the other dogs were severely undersocialized and by the time they were rescued in December 2009 they were living in total filth. (You can read further details on the GGBR site).

After the rescue Claire Bear lived with a foster family for almost 2 years before landing in her forever home last fall and still bears the psychological scars of the ordeal she experienced at the puppy mill.  Until very recently she really showed no signs of knowing how to be a dog. She spent most of her time hiding under a blanket-covered coffee table, knew no commands, didn’t know how to play, was afraid of toys and didn’t bark at all.

Claire Bear outside in an enclosure her new guardian built for her

Thanks to the incredible patience and kindness of her new mom Claire Bear is showing some small but encouraging signs of improvement. At first she tolerated no contact and only left the safety of her coffee-table fort in the middle of the night when everyone slept. When I met her in January she allowed her mom to touch her and, when coaxed, climbed onto a couch. However, it took close to two hours before she would stay in the same room with me. I was not able to touch her and she still did not respond to food, treats or any voice commands from her mom.

In the three weeks since then her mom reports she’s begun showing interest in deli chicken and now knows the words “up” and “din din”.  This is all really positive but it’s also painstakingly slow going. Much of the time dogs like her who miss out on normal socialization and human interactions in the formative months never get a chance to progress to this point or show any improvement. That’s because it takes someone like her mom who literally spent months planning and preparing for Claire Bear’s arrival and and now devotes hours a day working with her. Claire Bear still has a long a way to go and may not ever get to the point where she trusts people. It’s my hope that I’m able to report back regularly on her continued progress and I’d love at some point to spend more time with her and get new pictures as she settles in at her forever home.

Claire Bear, (then named Claire) on her rescue day

Those familiar with me know I typically don’t dip into controversy or blog from a soap box but in cases like Claire Bear it’s really difficult not to.

In the end this is really a story about a courageous little dog and some truly remarkable and caring people who pulled her and five dozen other animals out of horrific conditions. However, you simply can’t escape the fact that puppy mills like the one she came from exist and they exist because there’s a market for them.

Though extreme in terms of the number of dogs, this is not isolated and there are dogs living in similar conditions right now around the country. There are even reports (not proven but also not isolated) that the puppy mill operators responsible for Claire Bear and her 60 companions are selling dogs again, though through intermediaries and not directly themselves.

The only way to remedy this as far as I’m concerned is to diminish that market by informing the new-pet crazed public about two things:

1) There are an overwhelming number of wonderful animals both young and old desperate for homes and living on borrowed time in shelters and foster homes all over the country.

2) If you simply refuse to go the adopted-pet route and must have a pure-bred puppy or kitten,  do your research. Find and work with a reputable breeder. Check on them. Ask for references. If you can’t find any or they aren’t willing to give them to you that’s a good sign for you to look elsewhere.

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There are a number of fancy tricks involving flashes and light modifiers that can help (we can get to those down the road) but there are also some basic tips and simple tricks you can live by that don’t involve gear at all but just changing when you take your photos or where your pet is when you do.

Morning light is really great for photographing light or dark-colored pets (click to enlarge)

1) Shoot first thing in the morning or early evening

I know it seems counterintuitive but you generally won’t get good photos of pets (or people) if they’re bathed in direct mid-day sun. The light’s really harsh and unforgiving and since your camera is trying to average out all the different exposures a dark-colored dog mixed with bright sun and a blue sky equals a black blob. The light’s much more gentle and flattering right after the sun comes up and right before it goes down. Even better, the light has that nice golden hue to it so you end up with shots that have a warm tone to them plus lots of detail, including fur highlights. Added benefit: you won’t get a bunch of shots with a long pink tongue in them because your dog won’t be panting in 90-degree heat

2) Keep your subject out of direct light during the rest of the day

Some moments obviously won’t wait 4 hours for the sun to start going down. In these cases moving your pet to the shade or an indirectly, but well-lit space is the way to go. Sometimes this takes a little experimenting because you don’t want to go to the opposite extreme and not have enough light. When I’m outside doing this I also try to make sure the animal is at least facing the direction the light is coming from when we’re in the shade. When you’re indoors and the pet is in direct light try drawing a light curtain or covering the window with a white sheet to diffuse the light  (or you can just nudge them over a few inches)

Albert in and out of direct sun

In the pair of photos here (click to see them large), check out the first shot on the left of little Albert’s puppy butt in a sunbeam. See how all the white in direct  sun is almost completely blasted out with no detail? Now check out the second shot after he moved two feet over the left under a coffee table. You can see the same sunbeam on the right but the direct sun is blocked from his face and body by the top of the table. He’s also facing the window the sun’s coming through so he’s getting well lit by the indirect light (which gets an added boost off the shiny surface of the table)

3) Shoot in the fog or when it’s overcast

A lot of people complain about the fog here in San Francisco. Not me. It makes my job a lot easier. Fog and overcast skies give you a wonderful, even light with no harsh shadows. You can shoot pretty much any time of day without worrying about it. Colors really pop, too

Admittedly, these tips don’t cover everything when it comes to lighting and I fully expect (and hope) there will be a lot of questions and quite a few posts down the road about it.

Stay tuned for more tips coming next week. And, please, post questions here or email me if you have suggestions for what those tips might be…

Coming up next time: What’s Your Background?

Cast your vote! I’m nominated for Top SF Pet Photographer
on Bay Woof’s Beast of the Bay

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